1. Newlands Park bus stop

As you walk towards Sydenham station from the bus stop, there’s a little building that was once the ticket office for the station. This small Victorian kiosk is currently used as a pop-up exhibition, gallery, and community space. Now walk past it for a few minutes and you’ll arrive at St Bartholomew’s Church. This is the one that I mentioned in the blog for route 176 and it’s the one that is captured in Pissarro’s The Avenue, Sydenham, the original of which is in the National Gallery.

Even though I had been here before on the 176, I decided it was worthy of a second visit in order to perfect the photograph taken of the Pissarro painting. This time the church in his painting was open so it was a pleasure to go inside and take a look around (and shelter from the incessant rain). The church was built between 1827 and 1832 as a Commissioners’ Church. (Following the defeat of Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo a Commission was set up to build churches as a means of giving thanks and commemorating the victory. The churches are also known as Million (Act) Churches because that was the sum, £1m, initially granted for their construction, in Acts of 1818 and 1824.)

The interior is particularly impressive, with its high vaulted wooden ceiling, stone arches and colourful stained-glass windows. There are several interesting carved stone features, including a highly ornate pulpit decorated with gothic-style arches and figures. The octagonal font, standing on a raised stone base, is another striking feature.

Outside, at the front of the church, is a yew tree with a grave beneath. It’s a sad reminder of the tragedy that happened when the Crystal Palace was undergoing reconstruction on 15th August 1853. Ten workmen died in a fall from the roof when a large mass of framework fell from its position, carrying with it part of the girders and several columns. The funeral took place 3 days later with a mournful procession and the day was observed as a solemn holiday, with a total cessation of work within the (Crystal) Palace.

As the main purpose of this revisit was to take a better photo of the church to try to get the same perspective that Pissarro had taken, a walk along Lawrie Park Avenue opposite the church needed to be taken. Obviously these days, cars replace the carriages but the avenue itself is still as wide and the view is still as good. The trees seem to be different as do the buildings to the left of the church but it was somewhat awesome to be standing at the identical place that the great artist had stood.

2. Penge East station bus stop

Penge East station is a bit of a treasure in itself. It’s a nationally-listed Grade II building designed in a gothic revival, art nouveau, and Tudor style that was opened in 1863 and heralded the coming of modern transportation to the area. Have a look up when you’re standing on either platform to see the ornate covered footbridge with its corrugated roof – this dates from the 1880s. Just outside the station, on a wall in the car park, is a mural by artist Mateus Bailon, depicting a large bird, possibly a heron. Bailon is known for his wildlife-inspired work, particularly his birds. Outside the station there is an attractive signpost: its style of painted metal/fibreglass sign borrows from the traditional British village sign aesthetic to mark distinct neighbourhoods. The image on this one is of Penge East station, which as previously stated, is a listed building.

3. Beckenham Library bus stop

This area is known as Clock House – it’s where the clock was housed on the stables of a manor house that stood on the site of the impressive Victorian building now known as Venue 28. Amongst those who had lived at that manor house was Lady Annabelle Byron, wife of Lord Byron. The house was demolished in 1896. The gorgeous red-bricked Venue 28 was originally built as a Technical College in 1899, to provide local youth with education in science, art, and applied subjects. In 2009, it was taken over by Citygate Church, which had the property completely renovated and it now serves as a modern multi-purpose event space, wedding venue, and community hub while preserving its historic exterior.

On the opposite side of the square is Beckenham Library which is most celebrated for having a beautiful Battle of Britain lace panel. Of course it was made by a Nottingham-based company, as a commemoration of the Battle of Britain in 1940. Thirty-eight lace panels were made and given to individuals, organisations and countries to honour their significant contributions during the Battle of Britain. The panel is full of imagery taken from the battle – allied and enemy aircraft in combat, airmen parachuting out of the sky and bomb damaged buildings including the House of Commons, Buckingham Palace and Guildhall, all of which are visible. Most iconic is St Paul’s Cathedral which is shown surrounded by flames but it was untouched by the bombing occurring all around it. It’s a real delight to see and although can’t compare with the size or intricacy of the Bayeux Tapestry, nevertheless it has its own merit and splendour.

Venture further into the library and in the children’s section is a wonderful mural by Alice Patullo. She has created many large scale beautiful murals for libraries across the council and this one is no exception. Each site and mural starts with a theme (entertainment, sport, woodland) and takes in the culture, history, landscape and architecture of the local area.

4. Croydon Road/War Memorial bus stop

As it was 11th November, the Beckenham war memorial was cordoned off but it was possible to catch a glimpse of the poppies that had been laid there the previous Sunday. The memorial is in the style of a cenotaph and if you look closely at the top, you can see the outline of a phoenix rising from the ashes. The inscription on this side of the cenotaph reads “HE DIED THE NOBLEST DEATH/ A MAN MAY DIE/ FIGHTING FOR GOD AND/ RIGHT AND LIBERTY/ AND SUCH A DEATH IS/ IMMORTALITY”. There were more than 1000 men and women from Beckenham who had died in WWI and WWII and who are remembered here.

Opposite the memorial is the Odeon cinema which is due to close at the end of November 2026. Citygate Church bought the site in 2025 and entered into an early lease surrender agreement with Odeon to repurpose this historic Art Deco building. They plan to convert the building—originally opened as The Regal Cinema in 1930—into a place of worship and community space, which involves removing the multi-screen layout to restore a single-auditorium interior. As can be expected, there has been a public outcry but it looks as if the conversion is going to go ahead.

Round the corner is St Edmund of Canterbury, a striking late Gothic Revival church that was built in 1937–38. The main entrance is particularly impressive, with three large wooden doorways set beneath a tall pointed arch and an enormous window. Above the doors are three carved panels depicting the Papal arms, St Edmund and the arms of Bishop Amigo. Higher up is a sculpture of the Virgin Mary and Child.

Next to see is Kelsey Square and the old fire station and water pump. Unfortunately the fire station – now a men’s barber shop – is undergoing renovation so is covered in scaffolding but it’s possible to see what it was and still admire the architecture. The old fire station was built in 1873 for Beckenham Volunteer Fire Brigade, with funding by Peter Hoare, owner of the Kelsey estate. Look hard enough and you’ll see the attractive red-brick building with its decorative brickwork. You can just about make out the central clock turret, which originally housed the fire warning bell. There is also an old village water pump on the corner, where water once flowed from a spout in the mouth of a lion.

The adjoining group of red-brick cottages were built around the same time, probably to house the firemen who worked at the station. They have attractive decorative brickwork, tiled roofs and pretty entrance porches. The cottages were built for Peter Hoare and formed part of the entrance to the former Kelsey Manor estate. This felt like a small but interesting piece of Beckenham’s history, particularly as the buildings give us a glimpse of the days when the Kelsey estate dominated this part of the town.

Last place to see around this part of town is the George Inn, Beckenham’s oldest surviving building and pub, dating back more than 350 years to the mid-17th C (with a hearth tax record linking a Richard King to the site in 1662). It served as a vital stagecoach stop and the last coaching inn on the route before London (competing with the nearby Three Tuns). During the 19th C, petty sessions were regularly held at the inn, with the celebrated Charles Darwin sitting there as a visiting magistrate.

5. High Street/Wickham Court bus stop

Alight here to see the lovely old pub, the historic Swan. Manorial records from 1450 mention a property on the corner known as Smethes, which later became the site of The Swan. By 1745, there was an inn known as Smith’s Inn on this site and the current building dates back to around 1840. Local folklore long claimed that underground tunnels connected the pub to the nearby 15th C Wickham Court (home of the Boleyn family), where Henry VIII reportedly courted Anne Boleyn. As with many of these establishments, the inn served as more than just somewhere to imbibe a drink or two; it hosted local inquests, hearings, and public meetings.

Walk along the main road and in one of the side streets are a few murals, one of which is in Banksy style. The Boy with Rainbow was created by artist Chris Shea, who works under the name State of the Art. He painted this during the 2020 Covid lockdown, using his young son as the inspiration. The rainbow became a symbol of hope and support for the NHS. It shows the measure of the man – he used the murals to raise money for St Christopher’s Hospice and PPE for healthcare workers. Alongside is a striking monochrome mural of a roaring lion, incorporating a portrait of a man. I couldn’t establish who the man was or who created the artwork but it made an interesting juxtaposition to the boy with a rainbow.

Finally here walk a few more steps and you’ll find yourself at the site of the former Unigate dairies. The buildings originated around 1890 as the stable block for Wickham Hall. (see earlier information about Wickham Hall). Following the demolition of the hall in 1931, the stables were sold to United Dairies to operate as a milk depot during the era when horses were still used for daily milk deliveries. The buildings retain some interesting features from their earlier life. Along the Kent Road side, the old hayloft doors and remains of the lifting hoists can still be seen. The central clock tower, although inside the courtyard, is another reminder of the buildings’ former use.

6. Monks Orchard Road bus stop

There’s almost always going to be overlaps between the routes I’m doing now and those in the past and so it was that the 194 stopped near Bethlem Museum and Gallery. I first visited the Bethlem Museum of the Mind when travelling on the 119 bus route, and wrote about it in Blog 119. I won’t repeat all the details here, but I did want to mention it again because it is such an important and fascinating place. The museum tells the story of Bethlem Royal Hospital and the history of mental healthcare, bringing together an extraordinary collection of objects, archives and artwork. It is well worth a visit and deserves recognition in its own right.

The museum is housed in an impressive Art Deco building, with some lovely architectural features. The entrance hall has a sweeping staircase, flanked by two reclining sculptures, while the upper landing has a curved reception area beneath a striking circular ceiling. Among the exhibits is a self portrait of Victorian artist Richard Dadd, who spent much of his life as a patient at Bethlem and continued to paint during his time there. The collection also includes objects illustrating the history of mental healthcare, including a straitjacket, reflecting how approaches to treatment have changed over the years.

Another interesting object is an ornate wooden charity box, a reminder of the hospital’s long history. The museum brings together artwork, historical records and everyday objects, offering an insight into the lives of those who lived and worked at Bethlem.

Sharing the same building is the Bethlem Gallery, which hadn’t been visited last time. There was a wonderful exhibition by artist Emma Hunter, who had experienced severe postpartum psychosis following the birth of her twins, which directly informs her exhibition. This exhibition is entitled Visceral Shadows and focuses on matrescence – the profound physical, psychological, and social transition of becoming a mother – comparing two bodies of sculptural work created seven years apart, before and after childbirth. It’s on until 5th December 2026 and it really is worth a visit (and it’s free entry).

The first shown here is Every Last Drop, a sculpture that stands precariously on udder-like forms that jut out from the bottom of a flat shape, balancing on a baby bottle teat on its end.

Second is The Bound and the Played, composed of two forms that echo beaks, horns or a pair of legs. One of the beaks is bound at the tip, preventing it from opening. The other is bound further up, closer to its joint. Emma recalls it as a pair of castanets that can be played by another.

Third is Symphony (and Accessories), a rather unusual piece in which the artist has transformed an electronic breast pump into a ceramic sound sculpture. It plays a mixture of electronic music, recordings of the pump and hospital alarms, together with the sounds of babies humming, breathing and singing. Accompanying it are two small sculptures depicting wrapped babies.

All in all, the exhibition gave an insight into the mind of someone who had experience psychosis and explains how she managed to recover with the aid of her art.

7. Sandilands Tram Stop bus stop

This is the final stop on this route and there was only one thing to see – a memorial to the seven people who died as a result of the 2016 Croydon tram derailment. The memorial is a poignant reminder of the tragic loss of seven lives and the devastating impact the accident had on their families and the wider community. It also serves as a reminder of the importance of transport safety. The memorial takes the form of a simple stone plinth bearing an inscription and the names of the seven people who lost their lives on 9 November 2016. It stands close to the site of the derailment, with seating nearby to provide a quiet place for reflection. Saffron crocuses, the flower associated with Croydon, were planted around it, adding a seasonal display of colour.

It was another route that had a somewhat inauspicious beginning. I arrived at one of the early bus stops, in the incessant rain (again!) and waited 50 minutes for the 194 to arrive and in the end, it didn’t, so I walked the 20 minutes to the next place. These are some of the ups and downs of what I have set out to do – travel on every TfL bus route. However, it was a momentary blip in an otherwise really enjoyable day. Despite the fact I revisited two places I’d seen before, nevertheless I was able to see them in a different light, both literally and metaphorically. I had taken with me this time, an image of the original Pissarro painting of the Avenue, which I had failed to do on the previous occasion so I managed to get a more accurate perspective in my photograph. And visiting Bethlem Museum of the Mind, I was able to visit the Gallery, which I had omitted last time and which had a truly inspiring exhibition on display. Perhaps one of the most delightful surprises was discovering Kelsey Square, with its collection of old workmen’s cottages, former fire station and historic water pump. A brief glimpse into a bygone age …

Toilets that are open to the public and free of charge:

• Penge East station
• Beckenham Library
• Bethlem Museum of the Mind