1. Start of route

The bus starts at Downshire Field, a pleasant enough green space but with no exceptional redeeming features. That said, nearby is a rather splendid bronze bull, placed here as part of the local arts scheme to bring art to the public. The artist was Robert Clatworthy who was inspired by a real bull in the field next to his studio in rural Somerset. In this sculpture, he wanted to capture the “sheer physical power” of the animal. He definitely does that.

A few minutes’ walk from the bull is the University of Roehampton with some really lovely buildings, one of which is Downshire House. It’s a grade II listed building, built in the 1770s for General Cholmondeley. From 1798 the house was owned by Arthur Hill, 2^nd Marquess of Downshire until his death, by suicide, in 1801. Mary Dowager Marchioness of Downshire then owned the property from 1802 until 1836. Although she didn’t spend a lot of time here, it was here that she died in 1836. It was during this period that the house became known as Downshire House. By 1949 it was the last of the Roehampton Villas to be used as a private residence. It was purchased by the London County Council and most of the outbuildings were demolished. The LCC preserved the Georgian house and it has been in educational use since 1963.

2. Roehampton Library bus stop

I should have done my homework before venturing to see the library, which by all accounts has some interesting displays and a great view from the top. However, it was polling day so it was closed to the public -meaning that I had to find other things to see in the area. Before going away from it, though, I managed to see the colourful murals on the outside walls. The artwork is called The Four Seasons and celebrates community, culture, and place. Created by artist Adalberto Lonardi, the mural reflects the (Alton) estate’s “modernist ideals of openness and togetherness while honouring the diverse communities that call it home.”

3. Medfield Street bus stop

Round the corner from the stop is St Joseph’s church which was also being used as a polling station, so I didn’t even try to venture to go inside. The church was built in 1881 in an Early English style and apparently has some lovely stained glass. The oak lychgate dates from that time whilst the bell tower was added at a much later date.

Now head back towards the bus stop and you’ll see a rather interesting Drinking Fountain. It was built in 1882 for a Mrs Lyne Stephens of Grove House. The features of the fountain make it unusual – two children sitting on what looks like a fish, cambered-shape horse troughs on two sides and a beautiful circular central basin, all set into each of 4 sides of the kiosk.

4. Wandsworth Town Hall bus stop

Although Wandsworth Town Hall has been seen on other routes, it was worth taking another peek because it’s such a magnificent building. It’s not possible to take a good look round inside but the sweeping staircase that faces you immediately on entering is incredibly dramatic with just a hint of where it may lead to. The marble entrance hall is one of the reasons why the location is very popular for weddings and other celebrations. The inner corridors all have English oak panelling with art-deco glass hanging light fittings. Outside, the entrance includes a secluded courtyard with a fountain and steps, providing a grand, historic 1930s backdrop.

On the way back to the bus stop, there’s a wall with a plaque with an inscription stating that the pool had been provided by loyal citizens of Wandsworth to commemorate the visit by the (then) Queen Mary in 1937. Evidently there was a pool at this site but it has long since been filled in, it’s just a quirky reminder of what had once been.

5. Sunbury Lane bus stop

On the face of it, there didn’t seem to be so much to see here. However, this proved to be incorrect. First place to see is The Somerset Estate which is a 1960s public housing development known for its two 20-storey towers and seven lower blocks. The estate was part of a large-scale redevelopment of the Battersea riverside, replacing industrial buildings and poorer housing and represented a shift in Battersea from a heavily industrialised, gritty riverside in the early 20th century to a residential area.

Round the corner you’ll find St Mary’s Church, the original parish church of the area. Its Doric style porch is a most striking external feature and it faces the Thames to the west. The steeple is octagonal and made of wood. It really was too bad that the doors weren’t open on the day of my visit because it looks to be a treat inside. They have on display a first edition 1611 King James’ bible. There are also pencil portraits of the poet and engraver William Blake and his wife Catherine who were married here in 1782. It surprises many to learn that the wife of one of our greatest poets was illiterate, and could only make her mark with a cross in the wedding register. 

One final thing to see here is Church Draw Dock, worth a visit simply for its intriguing name. The dock is named after St Mary’s Church, as seen above. It’s a public draw dock and concrete slipway on the Thames and is still a traditional landing point today for small boats, river access, and sometimes as a launch point for kayaking trips. In case you weren’t aware before (I wasn’t) a draw dock is primarily used for repairs and cargo unloading, particularly for boats that need to “take the ground” (dry out at low water). Although nearby warehouses are long gone, the site retains a sense of the former industrial and maritime life along the Battersea bank.

6. Beaufort Street bus stop

This stop is right on the Thames and if nothing else, the walk along the embankment is a good enough reason to get out and explore. As you walk along with the river to your left, on the opposite side of the road is 104 Cheyne Walk, the one-time home of writer Hilaire Belloc. Although born in the French Empire in 1870, he spent most of his life in England and was in fact naturalised as a British citizen. The British artist Walter Greaves also lived in this house, though some years earlier.

Two doors down at number 100 is Lindsey House. It was built in 1674 by Robert Bertie, 3rd Earl of Lindsey on the riverside site of Thomas More’s garden and is thought to be the oldest house in Kensington and Chelsea. Previous occupants of Lindsey House are the artist Whistler and the celebrated engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel. So a house with an interesting past. These days the grade II* listed villa is owned by the National Trust but tenanted and is sadly only open by special arrangement.

Now walk back along Cheyne Walk with the Thames on your right and find your way to Carlyle’s House. Like Lindsey House, this is also owned by the National Trust and is open on Wednesdays. Thomas Carlyle -Scottish essayist, historian and philosopher – and his wife Jane (with her dog Nero) lived here from 1834 until his death in 1881. The house became central to Victorian intellectual life, and came to be a place of pilgrimage for literati, scientists, clergymen and political figures from all over Europe and North America. The building dates from 1708 and is a typical Georgian terraced house. Fans of the writer tracked down many of his items of furniture and on visiting the house these days, it’s possible to get an idea of how he and his wife lived back in the 19th century. On an outside wall is a marble frieze of Carlyle and walking back to the bus stop, along Chelsea Embankment Gardens, is a bronze statue of the man himself. The creator of the sculpture is Joseph Edgar Boehm, who had said it was “the best thing I ever did”. The polymath John Ruskin described it as “a noble piece of portraiture” with “high and harmonious measures in which it seems to me to express the mind and features of my dear Master.”

7. Chelsea Physic Garden bus stop

The Chelsea Physic Garden was established as the Apothecaries’ Garden in 1673 to grow plants to be used as medicines. The term physic garden here refers to the science of healing and is among the oldest botanical gardens in Britain. Its rock garden is the oldest in Europe devoted to alpine and Mediterranean plants. The garden was built with high brick walls to trap heat, giving it a warm micro-climate . The golden age of the Physic Garden was under the direction of Philip Miller (1722–1770), when it became the world’s most richly stocked botanic garden. For the majority of the 20th century, it was used for scientific research and was not open to the public. This only changed in 1987, much to the delight of botanists, scientists and the general public. For the last 10 years, the garden includes 5,000 plants, spread over a number of gardens – The World Woodland Garden, The Garden of Medicinal Plants, The Pharmaceutical Garden, with plants arranged according to the ailment they are used to treat, The Garden of World Medicine, with medicinal plants arranged by the culture which uses them and The Garden of Edible and Useful Plants. So much to see here – be prepared to while away a few hours. There is a café on site, so if you get weary, it provides a welcome cup of tea.

Caveat: If you decide to go here, there is an entrance fee.

8. National Army Museum bus stop

It’s actually a short walk from the Physic Garden to the National Army Museum, but each has its own bus stop. The museum is yet another delight on this bus route and in this part of the city. Quieter and smaller than its counterpart, the RAF Museum in Hendon, it’s nevertheless a place not to miss. The museum tells stories about the army’s history and heritage through its galleries, exhibitions, collections and programmes. Their mission is to “Engage and inspire everyone with the stories of our soldiers and how their service shapes our world: past, present and future” and they certainly do that in spades. Wander through the museum and find the army’s origins in the Foundation Gallery, what it’s really like to be a soldier in the Soldier Gallery, where in the world our soldiers have fought in the Global Role Gallery and the Army’s role in maintaining stability in Europe from the 1700s to the present day in the Conflict in Europe Gallery.

It would be a good idea to look at their website to see what activities are upcoming if you’re thinking of visiting – they have regular talks, tours and courses to engage all ages and all levels of interest. Best of all – it’s all completely free.

There’s a whole display case of the different head wear that soldiers have donned over the years and of course plenty of uniforms, including the Grenadier Guards, possibly the best known globally, the King’s Royal Hussars, Royal Regiment of Scotland and even a tunic belonging to a Lieutenant of the 2nd Bengal European Fusiliers.

In some of the other display cabinets are an eclectic mix of artefacts dating over the centuries. For example, look out for the very large wooden spoon shooting prize. This was awarded to the worst shot in the sergeant’s mess of 1st battalion East Kent Regiment. If you’re squeamish, you may want to avoid seeing the actual frost-bitten toes belonging to a Major Michael “Bronco” Lane who lost them while climbing Mount Everest in 1976. And towering above the entrance hall is a Lynx Helicopter – this particular one was made in 1992 and saw service in Iraq in 2009, being used in a variety of roles to carry troops and materials, for casualty evacuation and reconnaissances.

Do allow plenty of time to discover all the rooms of the museum and if you need to find specific things, you can ask any of the people who work there – they are definitely mines of information.

And so to the final place of interest to visit on this route. It’s the Royal Hospital Chelsea a renowned retirement and nursing home for around 300 British Army veterans, known as Chelsea Pensioners. It was founded in 1682 by King Charles II and designed by Sir Christopher Wren. In particular it provides a welcome home for veterans over 65 who require companionship and support. It is open to the public for tours and these need to be booked in advance (and for which there is a fee). However, there’s still plenty to see in its grounds – the Stable Block and Yard were built by Sir John Soane as part of a programme to modernise the hospital’s facilities in the 19th century. Surging demand for expensive thoroughbred horses in the late 18th century, led to higher standards for stabling. Look around at the design features including semi-circular windows to allow plenty of natural light and ventilation. Loose boxes were incorporated, allowing the horses to have greater freedom of movement. The café in the yard is an oasis after a busy day on the bus and if you arrive early enough, the post office and shop will be open.

This route started off as an average sort of route but it certainly picked up steam as I got going. There was just so much to take in, in particular towards the end, that it’s difficult to say what were the best bits. There were unexpected delights such as the Soane Stable Yard at the end, as I hadn’t realised that it was so close to the National Army Museum – and this latter was a great find that I would highly recommend. But there were other smaller joys to be found – the Church Draw Dock with St Mary’s Church forming a small cluster for example.

On reflection, I would say this is one of the best routes I’ve been on, especially as there was just such a wonderful mix of sights and sounds. I definitely didn’t do it justice in that I ran out of time and will certainly want to go back to visit the Royal Hospital Museum and one or two of the churches that were closed today.

Toilets that are open to the public and free of charge:

• Wandsworth Town Hall
• Chelsea Physic Garden
• National Army Museum
• Soane Stable Yard