1. Clapton Pond stop

Before getting on the number 38, it’s worth taking a look around and finding Clapton Pond itself. It was originally fed by a natural spring and still has a pretty fountain in the middle of the pond. A few minutes’ walk from here is Hackney Downs Park, one of the larger parks within Hackney and good for a stroll.

2. Clapton Square

So hop on bus 38 and alight at Clapton Square. There is plenty to see here so start with St John at Hackney Church. Although it’s not possible to go inside, the exterior of the building is worth seeing. Within the grounds is a walled garden, where it’s pleasant to sit and people-watch and the churchyard. The original church of St John was built in 1792 to replace Hackney’s medieval parish church, of which St Augustine’s Tower remains, at the edge of its churchyard.

3. Hackney Central station

Hackney Museum is a short walk from the station and is one that’s not to be missed. The different collections represent the everyday lives of people in the borough, many of whom have migrated from different parts of the world. Permanent exhibitions include the Victorian era, World War II and Windrush, while the current temporary one is about African heritage influencers in Hackney.

Hackney has been home to many celebrities over the years, one of whom was Daniel Defoe. Author of Robinson Crusoe, his original headstone is at the museum, although he’s actually buried at Bunhill Fields (see bus route 21). There is also an original poster by Chris Ofili at the museum, entitled For the Unknown Runner, celebrating the London Olympics in 2012.

4. Stannard Road stop

Alight here and walk round to the old German Hospital. Established in 1845, it offered free treatment to London’s then large German-speaking community which had a significant presence in the East End. The hospital’s German speaking staff remained on site during the First World War, but were interned during the Second World War with their places taken by British staff. Opposite the hospital are two grade II listed buildings, Bruno and Thomson Courts. They were originally built as extensions to the hospital and still retain some original features.

5. Dalston Junction stop

Near the station is Holy Trinity church, commonly known as Clowns’ Church. It takes this name because the annual Clowns International service is held here on the first Sunday in February in honour of Joseph Grimaldi and deceased clowns. The service is attended by clowns in full costume and is usually followed by a performance for members of the public.

6. Mount Pleasant stop

The London Metropolitan Archives is near Mount Pleasant (though sadly it was closed the first two weeks of November). En route from the bus stop is Spa Fields Park, which is the old home of the Bone House and Graveyard. Fascinating to find out that as many as 80,000 interments took place over 50 years (the original allowed number was 2,722) and each night from the 1780s bodies were exhumed and burnt in the Bone House, to make room for fresh burials. The Bone House stood where the current park building is situated.

Near Spa Fields is Our Most Holy Redeemer, a 19th century Anglo-Catholic church. Built in 1888 in the Italianate style after a Florentine church, the campanile tower and clergy house were added in 1906 and all are grade II listed.

7. Bloomsbury Square

From this stop, walk round to Russell Square and you’ll find the Wiener Holocaust Library. The current exhibition – but only until 4th November – was about Jewish Family Photographs before 1939. The photographs on display are a selection of late 19th century to early 20th-century photographs from twelve collections connected to Jewish families in Germany and Austria. A new exhibition starts mid November.

A short walk from Russell Square is SOAS and in particular the Brunei Gallery, an exhibition space with the current exhibition being Empty Cradles: Israel’s Disappeared Children. The exhibition shares moving testimonies from mothers who had their children taken from them and tells some very sad tales. As well as this, there is a SOAS artwork and objects exhibition, with some lovely colourful exhibits on display.

Back through Russell Square, with its pretty arboretum, towards Pushkin House. There is currently an exhibition by the artist Pavel Otdelnov called Acting Out. The paintings are a critical commentary on the ongoing humanitarian catastrophe associated with the war in Ukraine and are poignant but inspiring and definitely worth a visit.

And so to the end of the route at Victoria. This is one of the better and more interesting journeys to date.

Toilets that are free and available on this route:

McDonalds in Clapton Square

Hackney Museum

Brunei Gallery